Ghost of Hamlet’s Father
And with a sudden vigor it doth posset
And curd, like eager droppings into milk,
The thin and wholesome blood. So did it mine,
And a most instant tetter bark’d about,
Most lazar-like, with vile and loathsome crust
All my smooth body.
Thus was I, sleeping, by a brother’s hand
Of life, of crown, of queen, at once dispatch’d,
Cut off even in the blossoms of my sin,
Unhous’led, disappointed, unanel’d,
No reck’ning made, but sent to my account
With all my imperfections on my head.
O, horrible, O, horrible, most horrible!
William Shakespeare, Macbeth, Act I, Scene 5
In Hamlet, the ghost of elder Hamlet describes the effect of the poison that Claudius pours into his ears, how it winds its way through the veins of his body and suddenly “doth posset / And curd, like eager droppings into milk, / The thin and wholesome blood” (1.5.68-80)
“Posset” is a drink similar to our modern eggnog. It is made by pouring heated and spiced cream over a warm mixture of eggs, sugar, and alcohol. The result is a rich custard full of calories and fat that can sometimes curdle. This, in part, may explain why the earliest use of the word is a fifteenth century translation of Latin balducta or bedulta, i.e., “the curds of milk” (Old English Dictionary).
In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, posset was a common feature of everyday life. It appears in many print and manuscript recipe books from the period and often in multiple variations. No recipe is standard, so a lot of intuitive or preferential knowledge went into the drink’s creation. Some recipes expect it to curdle, others do not. Some require sack or other fortified wines; others use ale. “Posset ale,” the ale left behind after removing the curds from a posset, is even a common starter for many recipes from the period.
(Khristian S. Smith. “Possets, drugs, and milky effects: A look at recipes, Shakespeare’s plays, and other historical references.” Shakespeare & Beyond. February 07, 2020.)
Due to its richness posset was used as medicine to “strengthen.” Is could be used as a way to cope with colds and flu, perhaps strengthening the immune system. What else it may have been used to strengthen is very interesting.
John Russell’s compilation of household practices, Boke of Nurture (c. 1475), notes that “þe possate” and similar dishes, such as milk, cream, and curds, “close a mannes stomak.”
Perhaps Shakespeare’s most famous possets are those drugged by Lady Macbeth for Duncan’s “surfeited grooms.” Lady Macbeth slipped a couple of Mickeys into the possets of the guards outside Duncan's quarters so they wouldn't get in her murderous way. Moreover, Shakespeare’s possets specifically sit at an odd intersection between poison and panacea. They are surprisingly demonic – Claudius acts “with witchcraft of his wits,” (1.5.50) and Lady Macbeth’s soporifics blur the distinction between life and death (2.2.7-10).
The word“drugs” often alligned with the early modern anxieties over women’s domestic knowledge and their purported propensity for witchcraft. As the proverb goes, “God sends meate, and the devill sends cookes.” (A. Borde. Dietary of Health xi. 1542.)
Khristian S. Smith, scholar of English Literature at the University of Virginia, writes of another “strengthening” associated with posset. In addition to being beneficial for the digestion, posset was also believed to increase libido. Smith cites the following:
“In John Marston’s The Malcontent (c. 1603), the duke, Malevole, disguises himself and asks his wife’s ladies how the Duchess handles having an older husband. He really wants to know whether she drugs him with aphrodisiacs, but in the course of his questioning we also learn that Maquerelle, one of the elderly members of court, feeds the young courtiers a special posset that features three layers of curds.
“The recipe contains thirty-seven egg yolks, the juice of cocksparrow bones, the syrup of Ethiopian dates, and candied Indian eryngo (the root of sea holly) all “stewed” over precious minerals, such as pearl powder from America and “lambstone” from Russia (2.4.7-14). Curiously, there’s no alcohol or cream.
“ … Maquerelle chastises the young ladies at court who think her posset is only an aphrodisiac. In accordance with the medicinal recipes of the time, Maquerelle says that posset “purifieth the blood, smootheth the skin, enliveneth the eye, strengtheneth the veins, mundifieth the teeth, comforteth the stomach, fortifieth the back, and quickeneth the wit” (2.4.17-20).
(Khristian S. Smith. “Possets, drugs, and milky effects: A look at recipes, Shakespeare’s plays, and other historical references.” Shakespeare & Beyond. February 07, 2020.)
Maquerelle goes on to admit that the posset's primary effect is cosmetic; it preserves beauty, something that was considered a form of witchcraft in the period. Smith wonders: “So, is this posset an aphrodisiac, an anti-aging formula, or a magical charm?”
Other contemporary sources categorize a posset as a restorative, a cure for the plague, a hangover preventative, a digestif, and a delicacy.
This recipe for posset comes from Mary Baumfylde’s Medicinal and Cookery Recipes (c.1626, call number: V.a.456). Like in most posset recipes, the egg and cream mixtures are prepared separately, then the cream is poured over the eggs while still hot.
Positing “Posset” History
So, before there was eggnog, there was posset (also historically spelled poshote, poshotte), a British cocktail consisting of curdled milk, alcohol, and sugar.
By the 13th century, monks were known to drink a
posset with eggs and figs. Consumed for both pleasure and health,
posset was even prescribed to King Charles I for a cold in 1620.
In the 14th century, medieval Englishmen enjoyed a hot cocktail known as a “posset.” According to references, posset, at its inception, didn’t contain eggs – the Oxford English Dictionary describes it as “a drink made of hot milk curdled with ale, wine, or the like, often sweetened and spiced.” Royalty thickened their posset with cream or curds, and it was commoners who were forced to turn to cheaper options such as eggs.
Dr. Neil Buttery's blog, British Food: A History, covers the fascinating story of posset and includes a recipe from 1585's The Good Housewife’s Jewel. The domestic text advises combining and gently heating thick cream, sugar, ginger, and rose water, then serving in a “silver piece or bowl.”
(Thomas Dawson. The Good Housewife’s Jewel. 1585.)
In 14th- and 15th-century cookery manuals, a possibly-related word spelled variously "possenet", "postnet", or "posnet" is used to mean a small pot or saucepan. The spout in the pot allowed the liquid part to be drunk separately from the thick layer, which was eaten with a spoon.
In 16th-century and later sources, possets are generally made from lemon or other citrus juice, cream and sugar. Some recipes used breadcrumbs to thicken the beverage.
(“Posset.” The Diary of Samuel Pepys. www.pepysdiary.com. December 15, 2021.)
An essential part of celebrations, the posset pot would be found in most homes of the urban middle classes in 17th-century Britain. The pot was often passed around at English weddings to toast the bride and groom. In an exhibit called "Design Rewind: The Origins of Innovation" a couple of years ago, the museum compared the posset pot's design to the modern-day toddler's sippy cup.
(Lisa Bramen. “Pass the Posset: The Medieval Eggnog.” Smithsonian. December 08, 2010.)
"Posset sets" for mixing and serving possets became popular gifts, and valuable ones (often made of silver) were heirlooms. Such sets contained a posset "pot", or "bowl", or "cup" to serve it in, a container for mixing it in, and usually various containers for the ingredients, as well as spoons.
The posset set that the Spanish ambassador gave Queen Mary I of England and King Philip II of Spain when they became betrothed in 1554 is believed to have been made by Benvenuto Cellini and is of crystal, gold, precious gems, and enamel. It is on display at Hatfield House in England – the home of the 7th Marquess and Marchioness of Salisbury and their family. It consists of a large, stemmed, covered bowl; two open, stemmed vessels; a covered container; three spoons; and two forks.
(“Posset.” The Diary of Samuel Pepys. www.pepysdiary.com. December 15, 2021.)
Although the egg-laden version of posset became popular in England, it became less common as time went by. Milk and eggs were both scarce and expensive, and alcohol like the sherry and Madeira used to spike the mixture was pricey, too. Over time, the concoction became a drink that only aristocrats could really afford.
Eggnog In America
Eggnog became tied to the holidays when the drink came to America in the 1700s. American colonies were full of farms and cheaper rum, a soon-signature ingredient. Since many Americans had their own chickens and dairy cattle, tossing together a glass of eggnog was no problem, and the drink’s popularity soared among the colonists even as it sagged back in England. Rum was then referred to as “the drink of the marginalized,” so eggnog became more affordable and was soon a favorite among indentured servants and African slaves.
(Elizabeth Dias. “A Brief History of Eggnog.” Time. December 21, 2011.)
George Washington had his own eggnog recipe. Kitchen records from Mount Vernon indicate that Washington served an eggnog-like drink to visitors, and since the general wasn’t strapped for cash, he didn’t skimp on the booze. Washington’s potent recipe included three different types of alcohol: rye whiskey, rum, and sherry.
Only one problem: George forgot to record the exact number of eggs. Cooks in his era estimated a dozen would do. The recipe:
“One quart cream, one quart milk, one dozen tablespoons sugar, one pint brandy, 1/2 pint rye whiskey, 1/2 pint Jamaica rum, 1/4 pint sherry—mix liquor first, then separate yolks and whites of eggs, add sugar to beaten yolks, mix well. Add milk and cream, slowly beating. Beat whites of eggs until stiff and fold slowly into mixture. Let set in cool place for several days. Taste frequently.”
(Elizabeth Dias. “A Brief History of Eggnog.” Time. December 21, 2011.)
You can see how other countries across the pond began drinking similar concoctions. Mexico adopted the very eggnog varietal “rompope,” and Puerto Rico enjoyed the “coquito,” which added coconut milk. The English name’s etymology however remains a mystery. Some say “nog” comes from “noggin,” meaning a wooden cup, or “grog,” a strong beer. By the late 18th century, the combined term “eggnog” stuck.
Historical Note
Cato Alexander, a Black beverage expert, picked up on the affinity for the spiced holiday favorite and turned it into a tool for wealth by catering to a mostly white clientele. Born into slavery in 1780, Alexander was eventually freed and began working in restaurants, inns, and taverns. He moved to New York City, and around 1810 opened Cato’s, a bar at East 54th Street and 2nd Avenue. Signature dishes included fried chicken, roast duck, and curried oysters, and Alexander made a good living selling drinks like brandy juleps and gin cocktails to powerful white men, including George Washington. His fame spread throughout town, eventually reaching a New York newspaper, which posed the question, “Who has not heard of Cato Alexander? Not to know Cato’s is not to know the world.” However, even with this fame, few know that one of his most famous drinks was eggnog — also a moneymaker for him.
According to Opie, Alexander made the drink from scratch, and while we don’t know the exact ingredients, his version of eggnog was inexpensive to make and attracted a large number of influential —mostly white — customers. As Alexander’s business and name grew, so did the United States. In the colonial U.S., there was an abundance of dairy products and rum from the Caribbean. As such, the drink became more accessible and was popular among free commoners, white indentured servants, and enslaved Africans. Rum — known as the drink of the marginalized — became the substitute for the heavily taxed brandy and wine in the colonies.
But Alexander wasn’t the only Black tavern owner using eggnog as a steady source of income. According to Opie, African Americans of that time knew how to cater to the tastes of various customers, including wealthy whites, and used this knowledge to build free lives for themselves.
By the 1800s, several generations had grown up drinking eggnog, and it had gone from a wintertime drink to a treat that was part of the Christmas tradition.
The Eggnog Riot of 1826
It seems eggnog incited a riot on December 24-25 1826, among the cadets at West Point Academy.
At the notion of inebriates being banished by a strict, teetotaling new headmaster – Colonel Sylvanus Thayer – cadets smuggled booze – a total of three or four gallons of whiskey from nearby taverns – onto the school grounds and made vast quantities of eggnog. The protesting cadets had been informed that, due to the alcohol prohibition on the site, their Christmas eggnog would be alcohol-free, prompting the decision to smuggle liquor into the academy.
The night of debauchery ended in two assaults. West Point's North Barracks stood in a state of near ruin. Windows had been smashed, along with the building's furniture. Banisters had been ripped from stairways, thrown down with other rubble. Shards of shattered plates, dishes an cups lined the ground. Looking at the mix of hungover and drunk cadets, the officer of the day dismissed the corps. It had been a long night for everyone. There had been, after all, a riot – caused by eggnog.
The riot eventually involved more than one-third of the cadets by the time it ceased on Christmas morning. A subsequent investigation by academy officials resulted in the implication of 70 cadets and the court-martialing of 20 of them and one enlisted soldier.
Among the participants in the riot—though he was not court-martialed—was future Confederate States President Jefferson Davis.
Cadet Jefferson had a history of bad behavior with alcohol. A member of the class of 1828, he was the first student to be arrested for going to Benny Haven, one of two taverns located near West Point and the only one which allowed students to barter for alcohol. Another time, Davis was reportedly so drunk that he fell down a 60-foot ravine. He wasn't one to shy away from a good party, and was enthusiastically on board with the other cadets' plan to bring booze to the holiday party.
Historical Note:
Benny Haven's Tavern, is still immortalized in a mural on the West Point mess hall's wall. At Benny Haven's, cadets could barter blankets and shoes for booze, though the bartering of anything from the school (uniforms, for example) was off limits.
When Edgar Allan Poe attended West Point, he reportedly spent most of his time at Benny Haven's (which may explain his dismissal from the academy after only a year).
Before 1826, another tavern existed on the property directly behind West Point. North's Tavern, as it was called, was so close to the academy that it often enticed cadets – Colonel Thayer dealt with this temptation by purchasing the property and turning the tavern into a hospital.
By the way, West Point no longer has a grand holiday celebration, and where there are parties, access to alcohol is extremely limited, so the odds of rowdy cadets drinking too much of the good stuff remains the stuff of legend.
More Nog Disturbance
Eggnog stuck other devastation around America in the 1800s, particularly from politicians in D.C. Among the House of Representatives, overindulgence of the golden nectar became so prominent that in 1831 the Chicago Press and Tribune wrote an article on the subject.
“Eggnog has ruled the country today,” began the editorial. “It is a famous drink in public and private houses in Washington on Christmas, and some of the members, in spite of it, reached the house today at noon, and some, in consequence of it, did not get there at all.”
The article went on to lament the grasp eggnog had over the country and came to a resounding climax with a call to arms against the powers of their milky enemy.
(Hannah Abaffy. “Eggnog, The Drink of the Marginalized.” Milk and Honey: Baking History. December 19, 2017.)
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